Reimagining Ann Lowe: Translating Couture Embellishment Techniques for Hierarchical and Functional Ballet Costume Design

• Grace Resurreccion, Apparel Design, University of Delaware

• Katya Roelse, Fashion and Apparel Studies, University of Delaware

Reimagining Ann Lowe: Translating Couture Embellishment Techniques for Hierarchical and Functional Ballet Costume Design 

Grace Resurreccion, Katya Roelse

Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies, University of Delaware, Newark, DE 19716

Ballet costumes possess a unique set of requirements that differ greatly from those of commercially produced apparel, ranging from performance needs to aesthetic needs to hierarchical status expression. We can examine these unique specificities through the FEA model, a framework that evaluates apparel design through three lenses: functional, expressive, and aesthetic, and how they perform to consumer needs. When making these costumes, we kept this model in mind while incorporating the legacy of designer Ann Lowe and bringing her couture designs into a ballet context. Incorporating her signature floral motifs, we explored different methods of construction to accommodate the functional lens of the FEA model to ensure durability during movement while still adhering to Lowe’s couture-level craftsmanship. For the expressive lens, we had to clearly communicate the status hierarchy in our designs. In the “Waltz of the Flowers”, the segment of The Nutcracker that we designed this project for, dancers’ status rankings go from Waltz Corps (lowest) to Demi Soloists to the singular Dew Drop (highest). We communicated this hierarchy through various design distinctions such as color progression, level of embellishment, and skirt length. Lastly, regarding the aesthetic lens, the influence of Ann Lowe and her luxury craftsmanship had to be present in the floral motifs while still being consistent with the traditional costumes in The Nutcracker. Thus, this project is an exploration of designing in alignment with the consumer needs of the FEA model in a ballet context while keeping the legacy of Ann Lowe alive through our designs.