Securing the Seams: Examination and Preparation of 1920s Garments for Display

Researcher(s)

  • Chava Herniter, Art Conservation, University of Delaware
  • Ivonne Rodriguez, Art Conservation, University of Delaware
  • Vivian Sanchez, Art Conservation, University of Delaware
  • Hannah Orenstein, Art Conservation, University of Delaware

Faculty Mentor(s)

  • Dilia Lopez-Gydosh, Fashion and Apparel Studies, University of Delaware
  • Belinda Orzada, Fashion and Apparel Studies, University of Delaware

Abstract

“Blank Canvas” is an exploration of changing fashions and trends in the 1920s. Set to be unveiled in February 2025 in the University of Delaware’s Mechanical Hall, the exhibition includes over 60 extant garments. While the primary focus of the research centered on consolidating and supporting damaged areas, all aspects of exhibition development were addressed. 

The dresses in this exhibition span every year of the decade and show the evolution of the chemise silhouette. Early garments exemplify natural waists and low hems, which transition to raised hems, straight silhouettes, and, eventually, ruffles and dropped waists. Within the collection are multiple dresses with non-Western cultural influences, such as Asian and Egyptian-inspired patterns. There are also plentiful examples of dresses altered by their owners, a common practice during this period. Each garment requires its own set of considerations for conservation and display, taking into account factors such as age, style, and past conservation efforts. 

Many repairs were needed that involved a needle and thread, including securing snaps and hooks, stabilizing holes and tears, attaching a backing to weakened fabric, and re-beading designs that had fallen off. A select few garments stable enough were washed to have their stains removed. Since these repairs were done for an exhibit, and not in a conservation-only focused setting, in-depth repairs and matching techniques were not always possible due to time constraints, limited supplies, and the quantity of garments requiring work. 

This research demonstrates how practical, student-led treatment can support exhibition goals while respecting the historical integrity of garments. Students learned to identify material vulnerabilities, interpret historical alterations, and make ethical decisions about preservation. This project also contributes to expanding access to conservation methods in collection environments, offering a model for how similar institutions might approach large-scale garment preparations with limited resources.