Thoughtful Reconstruction- Historical Japanese Clothing In The Modern Era

• Loki Krukosky, Fine Arts, University of Delaware

• Greg Shelnutt, , University of Delaware

This research explores the feasibility of reproducing working class garments from the Japanese Edo period (1603-1868) using as close to original techniques and materials as possible from what is available in a modern art studio. Focusing on accurate technique and materials is an integral piece in fostering cultural understanding and respect. Cultural accuracy is imperative in commanding respect in living art forms and during its referential use in sculpture and illustration, as well as in cultivating appreciation for master-craft artisans.

  There are few preexisting examples of historical recreation from this era, but there are museums and cultural heritage sites that preserve and share garments that were important to this research, including the Tokyo National Museum, the Historical Costume Museum of Japan, and Hokkaido’s Akarenga website. 

 This project began with a search of museum databases and the focus garments were selected based on information gathered at these reference sources. This project included deep dives into textiles, natural dying, patterning, and reconstruction by sewing and weaving. A Japanese working class ensemble was created, including a pair of woven shoes (Waraji), a pair of work pants (Monpei), an under layer (Hippari) and an overcoat (Hanten). 

The findings of this project were that authentic materials and methods are available to a creator who searches for them, and that while shortcuts are commonplace, robust research is imperative to avoid cultural bias. Concessions may be made in creation of a cultural garment to fit time or budget restraints but it is crucially important to know when shortcuts mean disregarding cultural practice and can lead to bias and stereotyping.